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Blast from the past

BrazilianLiving to appear soon
Interested in real estate and expat life in Brazil? Looking for practical information on buying a second home or making the most of your stay in the country? UruguayNow's sister site, BrazilianLiving.com will go live in November.
And the winner is… Results of the UruguayNow awards for 2010
They may not quite be the Oscars, but UruguayNow has its own awards, six in all, for 2010. We hope that our pale-blue certificates (sorry, but there are no shiny gold statuettes for the moment) will serve as a recognition of excellence in the country's hotel and restaurant sectors. The research was carried out between December 2009 and March 2010. Journalists requiring more details of the selection and award criteria should mail Nick Foster, publisher of UruguayNow at nick@uruguaynow.com. The awards ceremony took place at the headquarters of Uruguay's National Tourism Ministry in Montevideo on 13 April 2010. Our thanks go to the Ministry for their precious support of the UruguayNow travel guide project. The award winners are:
Best-Value Hotel in Montevideo: Regency Golf, Punta Carretas
Best Business Hotel in Montevideo: Sheraton, Punta Carretas
Best Restaurant in Montevideo: Francis, Punta Carretas
Montevideo's Most Innovative Dining Experience: Rara Avis, Ciudad Vieja
Best Boutique Hotel in Punta del Este: L'Auberge
Best-Value Boutique Hotel in Punta del Este: Posada Aldilá
You can find out more about these establishments by visiting the Montevideo restaurants, Montevideo hotels, and Punta del Este hotels chapters of the guide.
Our top web picks
Not yet made it to Uruguay? When you're done with UruguayNow, our choice of the top 6 internet resources for the country is just a mouse click away. In no particular order, they are:
Ola Uruguay: www.olauruguay.com
Mercopress: http://en.mercopress.com/
Benjamin Gedan's Small State: http://benjamingedan.blogspot.com/
Retired in Uruguay: http://wallyinuruguay.blogspot.com/
Uruguay Natural: www.uruguaynatural.com
Global Property Guide: http://www.globalpropertyguide.com/Latin-America/Uruguay
For reviews of these sites, please click here.
UruguayNow in the press
UruguayNow's mix of travel and tourist information on Uruguay, hotel reviews for Montevideo and Punta del Este (coming soon for Colonia), restaurant reviews and tips on excursions, sightseeing and lifestyle in Uruguay has been featured in El País, La República, MercoPress and on Uruguay's Channel 5 TV and other news media in the country. Look out for features on cinema and movie-making, estancia tourism, Uruguay's best beaches and Uruguayan wine (and tips on the best bodegas to visit) in our next edition in October 2010. Journalists interested in finding out more about our Uruguay travel guide project should mail nick@uruguaynow.com.

Football, football, football!
Twice winners of the soccer World Cup, in 1930 (as hosts of the competition) and in 1950 (when the national team overcame Brazil in the final), football has for generations been at the heart of how Uruguayans see themselves. It is a matter of intense national pride that they are by a long way the smallest nation in the world to have won football’s biggest prize.
“At the end of the nineteenth and start of the twentieth centuries, the population of Uruguay grew exponentially," says Juan Carlos Luzuriaga, historian and author of a book (see below) on the origins of football in Uruguay. “Football gave many new immigrants their own identity, bringing them together and serving as a kind of common denominator. In the 1920s and 1930s football, together with tango and the traditions of Carnival, was the glue that held society together."
British railway workers, importers and ranch owners integrated into a society of criollos (native Uruguayans) and Italian and Spanish immigrants in good measure thanks to soccer. When Uruguay played Argentina in a match in 1909, both teams fielded players of British origin. A Uruguayan newspaper report of the game (published in Spanish) was nonetheless full of English football terminology: “half-time", “shot" and “goal".
During this period the rivalry between Peñarol, the team of the British, their friends and local workers (who tended to feel at odds with wealthy criollos), and Nacional, the club of Italians and monied native Uruguayans, set in.
The Uruguayan league was set up in 1932 following the successes of the national team. From its formation until 1986 Peñarol and Nacional won all but two of the league titles. When the Copa Libertadores (South America's Champions League) started in 1960, Peñarol won the first two trophies. They and Nacional were regulars in the early years of the tournament, with one or the other featuring in all but two of the first 12 finals. But the last time they featured was in 1988 when Nacional lifted the trophy. Since then, globalisation has had a massive impact in such a small country and has made it nearly impossible for Uruguay to keep their best players.
“The rivalry in the early days was intense but it was purely sporting. It was only from the 1980s onwards that things seemed to change decisively. Supporters certainly became more ostentatious," says Mr. Luzuriaga.
Indeed: when Nacional and Peñarol play each other in the local derby (called the clásico) one side of the stadium is a sea of yellow and black replica shirts, the other side is a sea of blue, white and red. In British terms, it is an acute, even bitter rivalry that is more like that which exists between Rangers and Celtic (in Glasgow, Scotland) than the relatively good-humoured stand-off between Liverpool and Everton (in England). Violence outside soccer grounds has also become a serious problem in Montevideo. Experts from England have visited Uruguay to advise on how to combat football hooliganism.
The Uruguayan national side qualified for the forthcoming World Cup finals in South Africa thanks to a narrow victory against Costa Rica in the play-offs. “When we finally made it, everyone was happy," says Mr Luzuriaga.
No-one in Uruguay is under any illusions that their team can seriously challenge for the trophy, but there is renewed hope of making an impact. In the 1980s and 1990s Uruguayan football struggled to produce skillful players and became extremely defensive (perhaps in some way they were trying to protect their legacy?). This has now changed and there has been a switch back to a more attacking style of football.
Watch out for rising star Nicolás Lodeiro in the tournament; he has been labelled the "new Messi" in the Uruguayan press for his attacking skills. He joined the ranks of Uruguay's expatriate footballers when he signed for Ajax of Amsterdam in January for a reported US$5.6 million fee from Nacional.
Hoping to get on the end of his attacks will be Diego Forlán, who some may remember for a not-so-successful spell at Manchester United (he has scored a mountain of goals at every other club he has played for) and Sebastián Abreu. Dubbed the "Crazy Man", Abreu is a hero in Uruguay, in part for scoring the vital goal in the play-off against Costa Rica. He is perhaps their most potent threat and is only three goals away from being their biggest goalscorer of all-time.
Uruguay's biggest challenge will be to get through the group stages, where they face France and the hosts South Africa. With only two teams going through and no hosts ever falling to make it to the next round, this could prove a stern test.
So local supporters can hardly be blamed for dwelling on past glories: On 16 July 1950 some 175,000 spectators, the great majority Brazilian, filed into Rio de Janeiro’s Maracana stadium. Brazil took the lead but, in possibly the biggest upset in the history of the World Cup, Uruguay equalised and then scored the winner. The French newspaper Le Monde reported a near complete silence in the stadium at the final whistle. Hundreds of Brazilian supporters had to be treated for shock.
In Uruguay, meanwhile, the government declared a day’s public holiday and the party began. But here, too, there was disbelief. Three people died of heart attacks listening to the radio broadcast; five more lost their lives accidentally during the festivities that followed the game. Uruguay’s World Cup winners were feted as national heroes. The rivalry between Peñarol and Nacional was temporarily put on hold.
Factfile: El football del novecientos by Juan Carlos Luzuriaga is published by Ediciones Santillana. The book is available at all major bookshops in Uruguay. Price: $450. The best place to see a match is the graceful Estadio Centenario, the national stadium, which is used regularly for domestic games. Nacional’s Parque Central stadium in Montevideo’s Cordón neighbourhood is also a good option. Expect to pay between US$5 and US$18 for a ticket. There is a small football museum at Montevideo’s Estadio Centenario. Opening hours: Wednesday to Friday, 10 am to 6 pm; Saturdays and Sundays, 10 am to 2.30 pm.


